‘Sharp cuts and close shaves!’

When it comes to looking good its all about the details! Smart guys know that looking good also means feeling great thanks to the sharpest of cuts, or the closest of shaves. Thankfully staying one step ahead of the grooming game  just got easier with the launch of Ted’s Grooming Room in Duke Street London W1.

This male friendly environment is blokey and breezy and the complete opposite of stuffy salons, what’s more with no appointment necessary it’s as easy as stepping in off the pavement and taking a seat. Once inside the treatments offered are varied, sure the cuts are great quality but for bearded blokes ‘Ted’s Stubble Trouble’ is the business. Not only is your beard styled and trimmed, the neck and cheeks are razored, ears flamed and it ends with an invigorating hot towel and massage.

Clearly unlike other less meatier offerings Ted’s Treatments are the perfect marriage of heritage and technique, perhaps this is because they’re harnessing the knowledge and skills passed down through generations of Turkish barbers. Cleverly if you want to keep up the good work at home then it’s also possible! Choose from an armory of products that actually do what they say on the tin, Ted’s Hair Gel that will make your follicles stand to attention and Ted’s Shave Cream will kickstart your day with a welcomed kick of Menthol.

Sure there’s no formula for looking groomed but with Ted’s help you can use the products and implement the routines that work for you. It’s all there for the taking! Have you ever wondered what you could look like if you really tried?

Its time to take a trip to Ted’s!

Verdict: ‘quality grooming at prices that won’t break the bank’

Price: Ted’s Treatments from £9.50.

Available: Ted’s Grooming Room, 11 Duke Street, Marylebone, London W1U 3EG

Competition: Fancy a trip for you and a friend to enjoy a three night trip to Istanbul? Then Ted’s Grooming Room are offering the lucky winner return flights to Istanbul, three nights stay at the Mama Shelter Hotel and a guided tour around the Big Bazaar. In addition a half a day s  relaxation at one of Istanbul’s oldest Hammams is followed by dinner for 2 at Tria Elegance. To enter visit: www.tedsgroomingroom.com

‘Decadent and dangerous, this is how you give Great Gatsby!’

So you’ve seen the film and you might even be sartorially smarter as a result, but can we tell you a secret? There’s no point sporting a bow tie and spats if you haven’t got the basics covered! The jazz age was an an exciting time when popular culture was exploding with Jazz music and style, life was decadent and dangerous..if this appeals and you want to give great Gatsby just read on. We’ve enlist the cream of the crop when it comes to cuts and session styling as well as our resident fragrance guru. Now you can expertly re-create this look at home.

FRAGRANCE:

The devils in the details with this look so think of fragrance as a finishing touch like your tie pin or cufflinks! Delve into the era for inspiration then give it a modern twist. According to Roja Dove the two key fragrance themes of the period were Fougere and Leather, and the new leather notes were the olfactory embodiment of modernism. We say, why not take a bath with a decent bar of soap like Penhaligons English Fern and when you’re dried down reach for a splash of Roja Parfums Fetish Parfum Pour Homme!

Just be daring! Remember this was a time of androgyny, and scents at this period were sold to men as well as women. Roja cites Coty’s Chypre which launched in 1917 and Caron’s Tabac Blond (1919) and also Chanel’s Cuir de Russie (1924). In the end they were all ultimately sold as female fragrances, but don’t be put off. Experiment with your scent like the perfumers and chemists of the 1920′s who were ‘having fun with new molecules and creating fantasy notes’ that reflected frenetic social change’

HAIR:

Getting your barnet sorted is crucial! Ken O’Rourke reckons the devils in the detail and as a longtime hair supremo and keeper of 007′s locks he should know! Use a great cut as your starting point and ‘keeping it clean around the nape and ears’ he suggest. If you really want to shine he rates spray wax as it ‘will distribute evenly’ choose a shiny one as opposed to matte and ‘you will instantly look more polished’

Ted Baker’s Master Barber is also happy to be finally saying goodbye to ‘quiffs, matt looks, beards and out of bed hairstyles!’ in favour of what has to be the sharpest look of all time. He suggest putting on ‘your slick suit, comb through the gel and get the closest of cut-throat shaves’ James Brown is also ‘loving the look’ and for ‘a smooth finish after a classic cut’ he suggests using his Fragrance Mist on hair. We reckon it might just give you that perfect hold and shine.

Clearly ‘The Gatsby’ offers an ‘alternative to a very short hair cut or unruly birds nests!’ says Eamonn Hughes, creator of some of the best catwalk looks. At The Grooming Guide we have seen this look surfacing for a while, and it’s been championed by dapper dudes like Joey Essex and David Beckham. Eamon suggests using a pomade for ‘an authentic look as modern styling creams and gels give a much cleaner drier finish. Both chaps agree that hair mousse is your secret styling weapon simply ‘add it to damp hair and comb through it will give you hold without becoming sticky.’

So invest in a bar of decent soap and take a long soak, get a haircut and the correct styling products, finish with a squirt of something sweet smelling and finally you’re ready to shine like a bright young thing! Go get ‘em Gatsby!

Nick Cox
Additional Research: A. Christoffers

“Using the right tool can make your hair look fuller, healthier and more stylish” Sam McKnight

JOIN THE CLUB
Always choose a brush with natural bristles as they distribute the hair’s essential oils leaving it looking shinier and healthier. They also make light work of thicker coarser hair. Choose between two styles, the most common of which is the military brush which is held in the palm of the hand. Alternatively the club brush with its rectangular paddle and handle are great for taming very thick or coarse hair.

DECISION TIME
It is worth investing in good kit, which brush you choose will depend on the length of your hair, its texture and the condition of your scalp. Thick and curly hair needs strong bristles, a sensitive scalp fine bristles and long hair longer bristles. Curved brushes are best for styling with a dryer as curve plus hot air equals lift. Using the right tool can make your hair look fuller, healthier and more stylish.

FINE LINE
Combs are ultimately portable and practical. Fine toothed combs can remove dirt, dust and debris, and give hair a smooth finished look. All combs should have some flexibility so if they encounter knots they don’t snag or rip hair. The Kent Hand Made Fine Pocket comb is a great choice as it is hand finished to create rounded ends that never damage your hair or scalp. Lastly the only option for wet hair should be a wide toothed comb.

KEEP IT CLEAN
Whatever tool you choose keep it clean, particularly if you have oily hair. Clean your brush or comb by immersing in mouthwash or soap solution and leave to dry face down on a towel.

BRUSHES
- Pocket Comb (RRP £4) Kent Brushes
- Oval beechwood pure black bristle brush (RRP £16) Kent Brushes
- Regular/Club brush in ebony wood (RRP £40) Kent Brushes
- Imitation Ivory Finish Comb (Coarse teeth large) £17.50 Taylors of Old Bond Street
- Med Mt Bristle Pewter Backed Military Style brush £75 Taylors of Old Bond Street

Kent Brushes: 01442 232623.
Taylors of Old Bond Street www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk

Thanks to Sam McNight and Eamon Hughes

‘High style and low maintenance haircuts!’

Who would have guessed that tucked away in the hustle and bustle of London’s St Pancreas Station is a small but perfectly formed barbers shop? Founded by Carmelo Guastella the ‘Barber of Choice’ of GQ magazine Melogy has earned a reputation as one of the top grooming establishments in London, I wanted to see if it really offered ‘excellent personal service and advice for the modern man’

On arrival Artistic Director Dan Gregory offered me a drink and also the welcome opportunity to discuss how we should best tackle the lion like mane that is my hair! After much discussion we decided upon an updated version of my trademark short back and sides with a longer comb-over left on top. As my hair was slightly too course, Dan used American Crew daily moisturising shampoo to add some moisture then stimulating conditioner to encourage growth.

I have to say that Dan was affable but also extremely focussed. To style, he used American Crew boost powder to give more thickness and volume then finished with American Crew moulding clay for a strong pliable hold. After a relaxed half an hour, he was finished and I was left with a well-cut, low maintenance haircut styled with a Mason and Pearson brush that made me look like a slightly sharper and more professional version of my former self!

When I left Carmelo gave me a sample of Melogy’s flagship product ‘Melogy Shaving Oil’ and I’ve found that it does an excellent job in softening my beard and protecting me from razor burn in the cold weather. Here at The Grooming Guide we are consistently impressed by the services on offer at Melogy and after my recent visit I would personally recommend them to any modern gentleman who is searching for a style upgrade. What’s more , I’m even considering dropping by for a wet shave in my lunch-hour.

Tester: Richard Taverner

Verdict: ‘sharper, slicker and more professional’

Price: Haircuts from £35 to £60, Wet Shave from £25.

Available: Melogy, St Pancreas Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, London NW1 2AR

Opening Hours: Monday – Wednesday 9am – 7pm, Thursday – Friday 9am – 8pm, Saturday 9am – 5pm

Website:  http://www.melogy.com/

“It’s time to get to grips with your beard and unleash its power.”

A well groomed beard can add shape to a thin face or give a fuller face definition. The young can even gain a couple of years and an air of authority.

Left unchecked a beard will give the appearance that its owner also has no purpose.

There is a fine line in grooming, it divides the artfully disheveled from those who look like they have given up on life. Do not cross it!

A GOOD BEARD deserves commitment so wash daily and use hot flannels to steam clean the skin underneath.

MODERN BEARDS are trimmed or clippered twice a week minimum. The best are blended/faded out by hand with scissors and a comb. Get practising.

MARK YOUR TERRITORY your beard should never either combine with your chest hair or end abruptly anywhere, particularly your jaw line! Keep your upper cheeks clean and finish things off around your adams apple.

“A hairy caterpillar nestling above your eyes is no longer acceptable!”

Let’s face facts guys that hairy caterpillar nestling above your eyes is no longer acceptable! Well groomed guys know that tidy brows are not only central to looking well groomed, they can also dramatically change the appearance of our faces. So if your eyebrows are unruly, consider this your call to action! Relax guys, fact is most men do need some kind of eyebrow maintenance.

Face Shape
Changing the shape of your brows can dramatically alter the way your face looks, so make sure to look in the mirror before you choose your plan of attack. Round faces will suit a more curved brow, whilst longer thinner ones demand wider straighter brows…you get the idea! As Craig Smith Brand Communication Director at Ted Baker says “Well shaped brows can accentuate your eyes and structure your face shape” 

Shaving
Don’t even think about it, tempting as it may be to attack your furry friend with a disposable razor, the reality is shaving your eyebrows is never a quick fix. You will start to regret your actions as soon as your brows grow back darker and more vigorously!

Waxing
Do consider this, but may we suggest that you leave this to a professional. Although there may be home kits available we have tested them and both the execution and results can be comedic.

Threading
Threading is a traditional and straightforward way of shaping the brow. Savvy guys know the nation is already dotted with barbershops and beauty salons that already offer this service, and yes, the guys taking up this procedure come from ALL walks of life! A line of hair is simply trapped between a twisted double strand of cotton thread, before being removed rapidly and with precision. Results can be dramatic“Eyebrows frame the contours of your face and eyes that’s why a brow shape can make guys look years younger in just 15 minutes” explains Shavata founder of the Shavata Brow Studio at the Urban Retreat at Harrods.

Trimming
As we age most men may develop a few longer flyaway hairs on their brow. All that is needed in this case is a steady had and a sharp pair of small scissors, simply comb the brow to locate the offending hairs and trim in the direction of hair growth. it goes without saying, tread gently. “If you suffer from extreme eyebrow overgrowth seek professional advice from a beautician”advises Tracey Cant at Premier

Tweezing
After a professional shape why not keep things in check by tweezing? Start by investing in the right kit! A great pair of tweezers will have contact between both sides, and unlike your old rusty pair will not yank hair from the root. Work in the direction of hair growth removing one hair at a time, start from the underside of the brow move to the outerside, then replicate your handiwork on the other brow. Rather like shaving this is best done after a bather or shower as our pores are open which makes tweezing easier and pain free. But be careful guys tweeze too often, and you could create a kind of male-pattern baldness in your eyebrows. Our Grooming Girls prefer their men to be men, even on the most macho of blokes an overplucked brow is just plain wrong!

“Get a little class to go with your moustache!”

Stop shaving your upper lip, it’s time to commit as Movember is nearly upon us! Embrace and enjoy it, and you will be keeping good company. From Rembrandt, Charlie Chaplin, Little Richard and Ron Burgundy, guys have been flirting with facial topiary for over two thousand years.

Here at The Grooming Guide we are pleased to confirm that taches are once again in Vogue. We know this because not only do our team sport them but we can also drink in a bar named in their honour (The Moustache Bar 58 Stoke Newington Road, Dalston, London N16) or we can join a club that celebrates their exisitence: www.handlebarclub.co.uk

Here at The Grooming Guide we advise you to start with a classic shape, and then experiment as you become more self-assured. A word of warning though, growing any moustache means taking responsibility for it. Above all it needs to be be convincing. No matter which shape you choose, a regular grooming routine and a confident swagger will work wonders!

Caring for your Moustache:

Trimming
Looking too walrus like? Then use your beard-trimmer to get a sharp line cut around the lip area, either trim level with your top lip line or jut above it. For shaping either use your normal razor or simply switch to the defining tool on your trimmer.

Definition
A close shave around your crumb catcher will leave it looking more defined. There are countless different razors on the market, we recommend a Mach 3 or similar. The market is awash with shave creams at the moment, so invest in one that works for you. If you want an effective and inexpensive substitute use a preparatory conditioner, it will make light work of your beard and is perfect even for the most sensitive of skins!

Upkeep
Shampooing your nose bug at least twice a week will keep it in great condition. It will also remove the the odour of the cigarette smoke and the remnants of your breakfast. Occasionally feeding him with hair conditioner will leave him feeling feeling soft and looking shiny. If you want to be as wiry as a Yorkshire terrier hold on the soap suds and conditioner and just comb.

Styling
A successful moustache is always well groomed, luckily all manner of paraphanalia are available to help keep your furry friend in check. We suggest you invest in a moustache comb, they are an inexpensive way to go from scruffy to sleek. Moustache waxes are also great for shaping or taming stray hairs. For a quick styling fix use a Chapstick, it has the same basic composition as a wax and you can carry in your back pocket.

Last Word
Word of warning be sure to moisturise the area under your tache or beard, no body wants a snow storm on their upper lip. Your normal moisturiser will do the job, rub into your scruff and wipe off the excess.

This dramatic technique, sees a lit taper or wand being brought into contact with the hair. The result is the excess is literally smouldered away. Please guys, get this done professionally! Trying this at home could have disastrous consequences, unless you want to be a human candle, remember styling products leave a highly flammable residue. We asked Ted Baker at Ted’s Grooming Room for his take on this traditional technique, thanks Ted!

So singeing is really taking off, who gets it done?
Guys for all walks of life who are interested in grooming, and an increasing number of younger guys who are keen to both try the experience and also prevent hairy ears!

How much does it cost?
Singeing is offered free with every service, it’s up to each client if they want to choose it. Just say the word……

This is a traditional barbering technique, so how long has it been going and where did it originate?
The technique originated in the Middle East and found its way throughout Europe. Singeing was offered as part of a shave or hair cut service by travelling men that visited towns.

What are the benefits?
It was an easy way of removing unwanted hair while on the move. You don’t need many tools to perform this, and it removes hair from hard to reach places where mechanical tools cannot.
When ear hair is trimmed, it can fall into the ear, which causes infection. With singeing, the hair is gone straight away.

Where can I get it done?
Ted’s Grooming Room at the following locations:

Ted’s Grooming Room
31 Theobald’s Road
Holborn WC1X 8SP
Tel: 0207 831 6463

Ted Baker&Friends
120 Cheapside
London EC2 7JB
Tel: 0207 726 2193

Ted’s Grooming Room
5 Avery Row
Mayfair
W1K 4AL
Tel: 0207 629 3519

For more info:
www.tedsgroomingroom.com

‘Male model hair…..come and get it!’

Sick of looking the same day in day out? Don’t know how to make a change? Then start at the top; choosing the right hairstyle is a great way to refresh your look and also show that you are bang on trend. It needn’t cost a fortune either! London Men’s Fashion Week was awash with sophisticated styles that will make even the roughest of pups look mature, masculine and pulled together.

We liked the look best at Jonathan Saunders where Fekkai lead stylist, Paul Hanlon ‘wanted the hair to look masculine yet elegant – think David Bowie in the 80’s’ and he succeeded by ‘combing the hair off the face but added texture’ We think that this considered style was the perfect foil for the tailoring, bold prints and strong colours in Mr Saunders collection. It could also look pretty good on you too! Relax, looking as great as these guys shouldn’t take a team of hairdressers either; just read on for some handy tips on how to get this look at home:

Get The Look:

• Apply a generous amount of Fekkai Coiff Extra Body Mousse through the roots to create volume at the front of the hair

• Heavily apply Fekkai Coiff Forming Wax and pull off the face using a large tooth comb to leave visible separation marks

• Blow dry to liquefy the product and to keep set in place, separate the hair at the front to have an imperfection feel

• Spritz with Fekkai Advanced Brilliant Glossing Mist to add shine to create a glass like silky finish and to ensure there are no flyaways

• Finally, apply a fine mist of Fekkai Sheer Hold Hairspray to ensure hair remains flat, glossy and in place

For stockist information visit www.fekkai.com

‘I’m about the can’t copy cut’

Errol Douglas MBE began his incredible journey working in a hairdressers in East London. Soon after achieving his first qualification at Roger Heart (aged just 16) he exploded onto the hairdressing field. The role of Artistic Director at Neville Daniel followed, and six years later he opened his own salon in 1998. His sizzling status on the mens hairdressing scene has seen him give stellar cuts to both Lenny Kravitz AND Brad Pitt, no wonder he received an MBE from the Queen for his outstanding contribution to hairdressing!

If you think that Errol just cuts hair for a living, you would be overlooking his session styling which has been featured countless times in the World’s glossiest magazines, and also his appointment as the first ever UK & Ireland Brand Ambassador for Moroccanoil. This award-winning Guyanese-British hair stylist is now building on his success with new salon openings in New York and Paris. What better time to catch up with the man himself to find out the grooming routine behind his immaculate success!

When is your first memory of having a specific interest in hair?
I had a home salon as a kid and even had a wait list of local friends wanting their hair done. I honestly can’t remember a time when hair wasn’t my first preoccupation.

Did you always want to be a hair stylist?
Absolutely, I always knew, and it was a mission from a very early age. I first stepped foot in a salon as an assistant at 11, and have been focused on learning, then teaching for every decade since. I wasn’t confused. I had cuttings, magazines and dreams of the kind of work I wanted to learn how to create.

You are well known for your celebrity clients, who are the sharpest looking men you have had the pleasure of styling?
All my male clients are sharp, among those with a profile I’ve had the pleasure of styling: Twilight Actor Edi Gathegi, Lenny Kravitz, Forrest Whitaker and Brad Pitt.

In terms of men, does black hair need special attention?
Sure afro hair needs extra hydration to maintain health and good definition of curl. I recommend our industry’s game changer the classic original Morrocanoil Treatment Oil and the Curl Control Crème – only requires a tiny amount of both.

Were you excited to be named as the first UK & Ireland Brand Ambassador for Moroccanoil?
It’s an honour and really exciting as it matches my own ethos so well. I have been a fan of the range since it launched – because it delivers. Rather like my salon it delivers a high end finish across all hair types.

Why do you think Moroccanoil has had such worldwide success?
This product has changed the way the industry and clients view oil in hair. The potency and purity of the Argan oil in all products in the range means that it’s both a styling and a conditioning tool – brilliant.

If you were associated with one look – mens or women’s hairstyle – what would it be?
According to my clients and industry friends, I’m about the “can’t copy” cut that is unique to the individual’s particular hair movement (even if it’s an established style) with a luxury gloss of a finish.

What would you say your favourite shampoo and conditioner are?
Morrocanoil Moisture Repair Shampoo and Conditioner – the shampoo uses a highly concentrated, water-loving formula, so I use plenty of water to activate into a rich, luxurious lather, and massage through the hair and scalp. It really does create the blank canvas required for high end styling. The conditioner gives excellent hydration regularly without heaviness.

Are there any other haircare products you would recommend?
Tangle teaser – Simple concept, but revolutionary for the comb out pre-styling. All male grooming tools are not created equal – it’s a WAHL finish for me. Ditto brushes, you want a brush that aids styling, that contributes in some way. Again, the Morrocanoil brushes have a ceramic/ion system that repels water for quicker drying so less heat time on hair and a handy hair parter hidden in the handle.

We’re very excited about your ‘Project Bell Boy’ – what can you tell our readers about this?
If I were a hotel I’d want to be a Thompson Hotel – they’re low key edge, innovative in their approach to their properties and very “city” in their locations. It made sense to work with them for a new look collaboration and to build a guest experience around a stylish stay that partners Belgraves and Errol Douglas salon. We’re looking forward to launching cool projects in other Thompson properties based around our mutual love of style so will keep you posted.

You have accomplished so much already – what’s next for Errol Douglas?
I’m looking at two of my favourite cities, where many of my clients also spend time and want the Errol Douglas Experience in situ: New York in the next year, and Paris after that. My overall mission hasn’t changed, it’s the best part of all this – nurturing talent. Those that have come through my salon, those here now, and those out there to spot. Frankly it’s an honour to guide and champion that talent, see them go on to their own stunning projects and demonstrate time and again why the hair industry here in the UK is so influential in the style arena.

The Errol Douglas Salon is located at 18 Motcomb Street, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8LB. Website: www.erroldouglas.com.

E. Tewkesbury